Deprecated: __autoload() is deprecated, use spl_autoload_register() instead in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_class_loader.funcs.php on line 55

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_class_loader.funcs.php:55) in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_template.funcs.php on line 379

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_class_loader.funcs.php:55) in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_template.funcs.php on line 40

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_class_loader.funcs.php:55) in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_template.funcs.php on line 317

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_class_loader.funcs.php:55) in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_template.funcs.php on line 318

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_class_loader.funcs.php:55) in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_template.funcs.php on line 319

Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_class_loader.funcs.php:55) in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_template.funcs.php on line 320
Kwik-Way Info Sheets


Deprecated: Function create_function() is deprecated in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_url.funcs.php on line 817

Deprecated: Function create_function() is deprecated in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_url.funcs.php on line 818
Formula Carbide for the Lightning Lathe

March 12th, 2013

Formula I Carbide Brake Bits

Kwik-Way uses a special formula for carbide which is design intended for the Model 104 Lightning Lathe, PN 109-1092-32

What is special about the carbide?

  • Our carbide is a special formulation of carbide and additives designed for high speed, high feed machine applicaitons.
  • Our carbide is also coated to improve edge wear and heat resistance providing longer tool life.
  • The radius is larger than on standard brake carbide and provides for smoother surface finishes.
  • We use a positive tool rake, which increases the ability to remove stock at higher feed rates while maintaining excellent surface finishes.

In closing, you can use the 104 carbide technology (insert) on the Model 102 and realize improved surface finishes, and increased tool life.

NOTES:

The 109-1092-32 uses a .032 radii.  This means that the -32 has the potential to provide a smoother surface finish. (Standard inserts normally use a .016 in radii)

Positive rake tools can not be turned over, but they can be switched from side to side, which can potentially double the life (number of rotor surfaces) of the tool.


Deprecated: Function create_function() is deprecated in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_url.funcs.php on line 817

Deprecated: Function create_function() is deprecated in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_url.funcs.php on line 818
Safety and Dressing Guide for Seat Grinder Wheels

January 9th, 2013

The Kwik-Way Heavy Duty Wheel Dresser

WHEELS commonly referred to as Seat Grinding Stones or Rocks.

The most common cause of wheel breakage is due to improper mounting and abusive and/or careless  operation.  Only  through  proper  use,  regular  grinding machine  maintenance,  service  and inspection procedures can wheel breakage be prevented.
 
It  is  the  responsibility  of  the  user  to  inspect,  at  regular  intervals,  to  be  certain  that  mounting flanges are in usable condition, are of proper size and shape and that no damage has occurred to the wheel or the machine.
 
The following DO'S and DONT'S should be used as a guide to safer grinding

DO's DON'Ts
CHECK all wheels for CRACKS or other
DAMAGE before mounting.
DON'T USE wheels WHICH HAVE BEEN
DROPPED or otherwise damaged.
USE MOUNTING BLOTTERS when
supplied with wheels
DON'T USE EXCESSIVE PRESSURE
WHEN MOUNTING wheel.  Tighten nut only
enough to hold wheel firmly.
Be sure WHEEL HOLE, threaded or
unthreaded, FITS machine arbor
PROPERLY and that flanges are clean, flat
and of the proper type for the wheel you
are mounting.
DON'T USE HEAVY GRINDING
PRESSURE
Always RUN WHEEL WITH GUARD IN
PLACE at least one minute before grinding
(wheel dresser).
 
Always WEAR PROTECTIVE SAFETY
GLASSES or proper face shield.
 
Wear a DUST RESPIRATOR, as dust
conditions are present in most grinding
operations
 

WARNING
IMPROPER USE MAY CAUSE BREAKAGE AND SERIOUS INJURY.

 

KWIK-WAY WHEEL DRESSER SET-UP

  1. Loosen handle #3 and rotate the pointer line until it aligns to the index angle desired and retighten.
  2. After attaching the correct grinding wheel to the grinder unit, carefully lower the grinder unit onto the dresser arbor item #1
  3. Loosen item #5 and raise or lower the arbor until the face of the wheel is in relative position to the diamond (#6). Retighten # 5
  4. Adjust the diamond #6 by turning the knurled knob #2 until the diamond is nearly in contact to the face of the grinding wheel.
  5. Engage the grinder motor hex drive to the hex cap on the grinder unit start the motor and begin  dressing  the  wheel  using  handle  #  4  and  slowly  sweeping  the  face.  (Follow  the directions below)

DRESSING OR TRUING THE VALVE SEAT WHEEL

It is necessary to true or dress seat wheels that have become dull or loaded, or have lost their form (angle). To obtain the best possible dress, observe the following.

  1. Feed the diamond into the wheel very slowly until the diamond just touches the wheel.
  2. Move the diamond across the face of the wheel beginning from the bottom and sweep up.  A slow sweep will provide a smoother finish while a rapid sweep will provide a coarse finish. 

NOTE: How  the  wheel  is  dressed  will  directly  influence the finish of the valve seat. Take care when dressing the seat wheels, this will improve valve seat finish and increase diamond life. Check the  dress  of  the  wheel  frequently  during  the  seat  grinding  operation.  It  is  better  to  dress frequently and remove a slight amount of wheel than to wait too long and have a necessity to remove an excessive amount to correct the wheel 

Changing a valve seat stone angle is only advised if it is to increase the stone angle, i.e., taking a 15-degree angle wheel and making it a 30-degree. 

It is not cost effective to attempt to reduce an angle, too much abrasive and diamond is required to perform this operation. 


Deprecated: Function create_function() is deprecated in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_url.funcs.php on line 817

Deprecated: Function create_function() is deprecated in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_url.funcs.php on line 818
Kwik-Way History

February 22nd, 2017
Kwik-Way History

Kwik-Way Industries, Inc., began as the Cedar Rapids Engineering Company in 1920, providing a product sorely needed by the fledg­ling automobile and truck indus­try—a reliable, standardized way to reface engine valves. Until the Kwik-Way valve refacing machine was marketed, that process was per­formed, with difficulty, by hand. Charles C. Hahn, founder of the company, was a former blacksmith's apprentice who appreciated auto­mobiles and wanted to solve some of their engine problems, such as valves warped by heat and wear. He queried machine tool makers around the country who not only lacked a lathe "chuck" to fit his needs but flatly told Hahn that such a tool couldn't be built. 

Hahn persevered, however, and with R.H. Meister, an experienced machinist, founded Cedar Rapids Engineering Company. The partners hired a creative mechanical engineer, A.I. Dunn, and between them, the trio designed the chuck needed to reface engine valves. The device worked and the Kwik-Way valve facing machine was born.

The firm's first modest office and shop was located at 902 Seven­ teenth Street Northeast in Cedar Rapids, and measured only 20 by 20 feet. However, the new product caught on fast throughout the United States and the business grew. The company's first salesman was I.R. Goodwin, an energetic young man who made his money the hard way—covering the dusty roads of Nebraska, North and South Dakota, and northwestern Iowa by automo­bile, peddling his wares primarily to garages.

During World War II, Cedar Rapids Engineering Company put its close-tolerance machining skills to work grinding radio crystals for the Allied defense effort. As the com­pany continued to expand, an eye was cast toward foreign markets. Although some sales had been made overseas almost by accident, it wasn't until 1962 that Kwik-Way machines were marketed abroad directly by Cedar Rapids Engineer­ing Company. That year, overseas sales totaled $68,000; today, that annual figure amounts to several million dollars.

After Charles Hahn's death in the 1940s, control of the enterprise was assumed, first by his partner, R.H. Meister, and then by Hahn's two sons, F. Critz and H. Cedric. In 1968, Cedar Rapids Engineering Company was merged into the newly formed Kwik-Way Industries, Inc., headed by Thomas A. Parks and a new professional management team. The company acquired a Canadian firm in 1969, now called Kwik - Way Manufacturing of Canada, Ltd. In late 1973, Material Products Company, a steel fabricat­ing firm, and Line-O-Tronics, Inc., maker of auto front-end alignment tools and wheel balancers, were ac­quired. Today Kwik-Way manufac­tures the automotive industry's most complete line of repair machinery.

A large industrial facility was built and occupied at 500 Fifty-seventh Street, Marion, in 1976. In 1 9 8 0 , the company employs approximately 300 people through its Marion facility, 140 at Rock Is­land, Illinois, and 50 at its facility at Toronto, Canada.


Deprecated: Function create_function() is deprecated in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_url.funcs.php on line 817

Deprecated: Function create_function() is deprecated in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_url.funcs.php on line 818
How to Fix Chatter or a Really Poor Finish on the Valve

April 10th, 2019

Valve Finish

The following will resolve a valve finish issue and is also a good part of the process of setting up a new Kwik-Way SVS II Deluxe Valve Refacer. 

Chatter or a Poor Finish

on an engine valve after grinding is almost always the result of vibration somewhere.  There are other things that can cause it too, but the most common is vibration. There are little adjustments that can be made to try and clean things up.  Slow the valve spin, dress the stone more aggressively or less aggressively.  Maybe even try a different grinding wheel. Those can all affect the finish of a valve.  But if it's a really bad finish, chances are you have a vibration somewhere.

Fixing the Chatter Causing Vibration

The Kwik-Way Model SVSII Deluxe machine is a High-Performance machine. The cast iron base and special treatments to parts and sections of the machine make it the most accurate and long lasting machine of it's kind. But even so, when it gets out of calibration it will happily produce a bad finish. To prevent this the technician must be diligent with maintenance and cleaning. Afterall you are producing fine particles of metal and stone from two spinning objects.  Even though you are using a liquid to help capture this debris it's still getting around.

Start with the Big Motor

Start by making sure your machine is turned off and unplugged. While standing in front of the Valve Refacer, move the traverse arm to a vertical position. Then place both hands on the two aluminum end caps of the main motor housing. Now attempt to move the housing away from you and towards you. Does it move?  If it does you likely have found the reason for your bad valve finish. 

Adjusting the Gibs

Leave the traverse lever in the verticle position. Go around behind the machine and locate the three Allen head screws just under the black housing cover.  Start with the screw that is near the large grinding stone. Tighten until the traverse lever won't move anymore.  Now slowly back off the screw while trying to move the handle until you are able to move the handle its full range with a noticeable amount of smooth drag.  Put the traverse lever vertical again and repeat the same process on the screw on the other end. 

Now move back to the front of the machine and check to see that the rocking movement you felt earlier is now gone.  If not you'll need to repeat the process above or you may have a warn or damaged gib. But if the movement is gone you can finish by repeating the same steps we did to the outer two screws on the middle screw. While this will likely have solved your bad valve finish problem I would recommend you check all the other possible adjustments I'm going to give you.

Switch Sides

Over on the Chuck side of the machine, there are several different areas that need to be looked at to ensure everything is correct. Let's start with the easy things to check.  The belt that drives the chuck is a ribbed belt for a reason.  This belt needs to be as loose as possible without slipping.  This is to prevent any motor vibration from transferring to the back end of the chuck.  Vibration back here would be amplified at the other end of the chuck where your valve is grinding.

Next, you need to check the chuck for lateral movement.  Grab the valve end and the other end of the chuck and see if you can move it side to side or front to back would be a better way of saying it.  There should be no movement from front to back.  If you have movement then you need to loosen the set screw on the spline pully on the back of the chuck and while pushing the valve end of the chuck toward the back slide the spline pully up until it just touches the side of the rear saddle mount of the chuck.  Then tighten the setscrew back up.

Chuck Gibs 

Similar to how the grinding motor side had gibs to be adjusted the chuck also has a set of gibs that can become out of adjustment.  To check this you first lock your chuck degree adjustment and then try and move the valve feed hand wheel side to side while looking were the cast plate the chuck is mounted to meets the other cast plate that has the degree markings.  IF you see a very small bead of oil moving where those two plates meet then you probably need to adjust your chuck gibs. 

These are adjusted one at a time until they are tight then back them off slightly.  When you think you have it, do the test again to be sure.

Adjusting the Chuck Saddles

The last item to investigate is the chuck saddles. These have the capped oilers on them and should be oiled on a regular basis.  Over time the chuck shaft and these saddles will become worn and need to be adjusted.  Remove the chuck belt to make these adjustments.  Start with the saddle closest to the chuck.  While turning the chuck with one hand tighten the saddle bolt until you feel resistance and back off ever so slightly until no resistance is felt.  Move to the rear of the chuck and do the same.  Finish by repeating the first operation.

After All These Adjustments

If you still have a finish problem it could be a dirty or worn out Chuck.  Do a full disassembly of your Chuck and clean it with denatured alcohol then reassemble using ATF as a lubricant. Which, by the way, is the only thing you should ever use to lubricate your Chuck ball area. Instructions to disassemble your Chuck can be found in the manual and a current manual is available on the Kwik-Way website as a free download.  

After cleaning, check the runout of your Chuck.  Use a known straight shaft like the pilot for seat grinding and place it in the chuck.  Set a dial indicator about 1 inch from the face of the Chuck and check your runout. Excessive runout at this point would indicate the need to replace the Chuck. 

If your runout is good, then it might be your stone and/or the way you are dressing your stone.  The stone should match the type of metal you are grinding and the machine manual will tell you the proper way to dress the stone for the type of cut you are attempting.

Still having a problem even after doing all the steps above?  Then you should call Irontite Tech Services for more help.  But in most cases, the above guide will solve your poor valve finish issues.

 

 


Deprecated: Function create_function() is deprecated in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_url.funcs.php on line 817

Deprecated: Function create_function() is deprecated in /home/kwadmin1/public_html/techdoc/inc/_core/_url.funcs.php on line 818
How to Identify Which Valve Refacer You Have

February 7th, 2012

By far, the best way to determine which model of Valve Refacer you have is to give your serial number to the Kwik-Way Representative when you call in. The Serial number is located above the 15 degree mark on the angle gauge of all but the very oldest valve refacers. For most of them there will be a letter D or S after the first letters of SVS, but some of the really old units might have a number like "KK 234". Regardless, if you give the entire set of letters and numbers to a Kwik-Way Representative, they will be able to insure that you are getting the correct parts or consumables for your particular model of Valve Refacer.

Here is a photo of a 2009 production serial number.

 

 

Here are some other things that will help you identify your SVS valve refacer.

Early SVS SVSII D (Deluxe) SVSII S (Standard)
Serial Numbers:202-2681 SNs: 3,003-5173; 10,000(KWP) and up. SNs: 10,003-10,166
Air Operated Chuck Air Operated Chuck Lever Operated Chuck
Variable Speed Chuck Variable Speed Chuck One Speed Chuck
Aluminum Chuck Cover Plastic Chuck Cover Plastic Chuck Cover
Rubber Mat on Chuck Cover No Rubber Mat on Chuck Cover No Rubber Mat on Chuck Cover
Does not have a valve counter

Valve counter present

Does not have a valve counter.